Thursday, November 24, 2011

Fishing - How to Choose the Right Fishing Rod

!±8± Fishing - How to Choose the Right Fishing Rod

There are many ways to catch fish. A fisherman can surely catch fish with his hands. He can catch fish with a spear. He could even cast a net over a school of fish, however awkward it may be at first. All of these methods can be effective with practice but they offer the same disadvantage to the fisherman: the catch is restricted to only shallow water varieties of fish.

On the other hand, many believe that it is the fishing rod that is the fisherman's most basic, most important weapon. With a fishing rod, your chances of getting a good catch are very much improved.

When it comes to game fishing, that is, fishing for large, offshore fish, a fishing rod is a necessity. You just can't do without it.

If you're new at fishing, a fishing rod will be your main investment. It is the one, essential tool that makes most fishing possible and enjoyable. Oftentimes, just manipulating a fishing rod can become addictive for many people.

Here are some guidelines that will help you select the right fishing rod for your needs.

- Shape. A fishing rod should taper off from its base to its tip. You won't have problems with finding a fishing rod that satisfies this shape. It's quite widespread, practically universal. Advanced designs are introduced to the market every now and then, but the classic and traditional is still the best and finest choice.

- Weight. A fishing rod is described by weight. This weight doesn't refer to the actual heaviness of the rod. Rather, this refers to how resilient the rod will be for specific types of lures and for specific types of fish. Therefore, classifications like Ultra-Light, Light, Medium-Light, Medium, Medium-Heavy, Heavy, and Ultra-Heavy are used when describing fishing rods or fishing poles to help the fisherman in choosing the correct one for his objectives.

Fly fishing, for instance, can be managed with Ultra-Light to Medium weight rods. Bass fishing, on the other hand, would require Medium-Light to Heavy weight rods.

- Action. A fishing rod is also described by action. Action refers to how much the fishing rod can bend when pulled by a particular force, and how fast it will revert to its neutral position when the force is removed. Action is categorized as slow, medium or fast, although middle-points between levels can be found.

- One-piece or Two-piece. Some fishing rods are labeled as one-piece, because they come in, well, one piece. They are said to feel very natural for the fisherman, allowing for a more comfortable and relaxing time.

On the other hand, two-piece fishing rods are, of course, more complicated. But with the proper engineering, these rods can achieve their goals effectively well. However, you'll need to take special care when selecting a two-piece rod. If it's ineptly manufactured, it could be disastrous even for experienced fishermen.

When the time comes for you to choose a fishing rod, you really need to know about the fish you intend to catch. Some fish take a few minutes to catch, while others can take many long hours. Knowing this will dictate what kind of fishing rod you'll need. There'll be no room for guesswork and you'll have the best fishing rod possible. Good luck!


Fishing - How to Choose the Right Fishing Rod

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Knife Sharpening Experts - Sharpening Stones

!±8± Knife Sharpening Experts - Sharpening Stones

There are so many kinds of knife sharpeners out there. It could be exciting just to select one. You could use an electric grinder but that's pretty major. Only professional sharpeners should go there. Maybe you'd like an electric sharpener, the ones where all you've got to do is just swipe the blade through. Perhaps you'd like a sharpening guide system where you've got a sharpening stone and an angle guide combined. Ever thought of a sharpener on a key chain? Imagine that.

Most sharpeners are designed with speed and ease in mind. Most things are. A basic sharpening stone is not. Using a sharpening stone isn't fast. But it isn't very slow, either. Would you believe that it could be the fastest, the cheapest and the most dependable way to sharpen a knife's edge?

So what are the "many" advantages of using sharpening stones over everything else? Let us count the ways:

* It could be the fastest way to sharpen because you'll do it right there where you are. You needn't go anywhere or wait to have it done for you.

* It could be the cheapest because you won't have to pay for services rendered. No gas money spent dropping it off or picking it up.

* They're more reliable than electric sharpeners. You can take them practically anywhere and not be dependent on electric outlets. You needn't worry about weakening your edges by accidentally overheating them. Best of all, you needn't depend upon a machine to do it for you because you'll be able to do it yourself.

Special note: There are high priced electric knife sharpeners out there that claim "never" to detemper you knife edges. I can't speak on the reliability of such claims. Just be very cautious if you decide to use one.

* Sharpening stones are more dependable than automatic sharpeners. You'll be one skilled individual if you're able to maintain the same sharpening angle for both sides of the edge each time you swipe the knife. Maintaining the right position from tip to heel isn't so easy. If you haven't mastered it, the edge may seem sharp initially, but you'll need to swipe it again before you know it.

* Many sharpening stones come in compact sizes. They could fit right in your hand. An axe stone, for example, looks like a really fat cookie. A very safe cookie. Some rectangular stones are like a little thin bar of chocolate that comes in a box (anybody hungry?). And most of us have seen tiny sharpening stones in a special pocket on a knife belt holster. Don't forget the ones on a key chain. Talk about handy. Sure isn't so easy with most other types of knife sharpeners.

* And best of all, you can take sharpening stones practically anywhere you need to go, except maybe underwater or flying through the air. Really almost anywhere. (Outer space isn't recommended.)

If you do decide to pick up a sharpening stone, you'll have some choices. There are water stones, oil stones and diamond stones (don't get any ideas). Each kind having its own varieties available and each with its own set of advantages. Whichever type you choose, sharpening stones usually come in two halves. One half has a coarse grade that'll get your blade's edge good and sharp. The other half has a much finer grade for refining that edge to razor-sharpness. This is real good for kitchen knives. Just one stone can easily take care of many, if not most, of your every day sharpening needs.

The most recent addition to sharpening stones is the ceramic sharpening stone. Many people aren't even aware that they're out there. They are only meant to sharpen steel knives. They are not meant to sharpen ceramic knives. Because they are much harder than steel, be sure to sharpen your steel knives carefully. Metal comes off the edge much faster than all other sharpening stones and so sharpening happens much faster.

Using a sharpening stone to sharpen a knife is still the most dependable and reliable way to sharpen your blade edge. It's very simple. Very effective. It could be the fastest, the most inexpensive way to sharpen knives. When you know what you're doing, you'll save your knives, too. Be very careful.


Knife Sharpening Experts - Sharpening Stones

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

Re-Using Cardboard Packaging - The 10 Best Knives For Cutting Cardboard

!±8± Re-Using Cardboard Packaging - The 10 Best Knives For Cutting Cardboard

Cardboard The 10 Best Knives

Cardboard is composed of treated, pulped wood chips formed into sheets and layered. Most cardboard sheets consist of 2 flat layers with a corrugated layer in the middle, giving it a wood like strength.

In the UK, retailers, wholesalers and distributors up and down the country are increasingly re-using their packaging materials. Not only does this help to keep down business costs, it also saves natural resources, conserves energy and reduces waste. As it is a strong, versatile material, cardboard boxes may be re-used a number of times, cut down to smaller sizes, or made into 'new' boxes. With increasing public awareness of environmental issues, customers have come to accept recycled packaging. Shops and businesses are now partly defined by their carbon footprint and environmental policies.

Cutting cardboard is one of the toughest tests for a knife. A plain edge knife will quickly become blunt when cutting cardboard, a serrated edge will make the job easier but will not make a clean cut. Many high end knives have blades which are more than 3 mm thick, these may become stuck when making a long cut in a sheet of medium grade cardboard. There is also the danger of the blade accidentally closing on the back cut, unless a lock knife is used. Even then, continual, heavy-duty cardboard use will put a major strain on the locking mechanism.

1 - Peanut Knife- This is a small penknife with the largest blade measuring less than 3 inches. The chrome vanadium steel has unbelievable edge holding properties and seems to hold an edge indefinitely. The thinness of the blade is also well suited and the shape of the main blade gives a sharp point to make a piercing cut. Good value semi production knife, legal to carry in public in the UK. However for heavy-duty work a thicker, locking blade may be preferred.

2 - Delica 4 Knife Flat Ground BladeThe 2010 flat ground blade model is well suited to cutting cardboard. The point is finer then the previous delica 4 model ideal for piercing cuts. The blade is thin enough to make long cuts and the lock back is suitably strong for most scenarios. The VG10 steel is good at holding an edge although will need re-sharpening after medium use. Good value production lock knife with high grip handle and pocket clip, available with G10 or FRN handle scales.

3 - Spyderco Lava Knife Unfortunately now discontinued, the Spyderco Lava knife is a design classic. With the blade open, the knife has curved grip points for the fingers and thumb and the blade is orientated in a downward direction, increasing leverage. Although the flat ground, leaf shaped blade is very short, the knife is excellent for piercing and making short cuts through heavy grade cardboard. The locking mechanism is completely reliable; a longer blade would be required for cutting large sheets of cardboard.

4 - Spyderco Native Knife - The spear point, swedge grind, tip of the Native Knife is excellent for piercing cuts or making 'scoring' cuts, without cutting straight though the cardboard. However, due to the thickness of the blade it may become stuck in large sheets of cardboard. The S30V steel is superior to VG10 steel in terms of holding an edge and the locking mechanism is practically unbreakable.

5 - Spyderco Centofante 3 Lock Knife - A thin, hollow sabre ground blade with a spear point, swedge grind tip, makes an excellent cardboard piercing knife. The jimped thumb ramp gives good leverage and the lock back is reliable. The VG10 steel is good at holding an edge, however a flat ground blade would be better to cut large sheets of cardboard and S30V steel holds a better edge.

6 - Spyderco Centofante 4 Lock Knife - The Wharncliffe shape blade has a swedge grind tip, which makes a very fine point and is very good for making an initial cut. The edge of the blade is perfectly straight which is good for making long cuts, although a flat grind instead of hollow sabre grind would be better in this scenario. One of the best medium priced lock knives for cardboard cutting, with VG10 steel blade.

7 - Spyderco Urban Knife Foliage Green Handle - One of the best shapes, with a flat grind leaf blade, giving a very fine point. The thumb ramp and finger choil jimping gives an excellent grip, non-locking knife with safety notch joint to prevent accidental closing. A locking blade may be preferred for more heavy-duty work. S30V steel also hold s a better edge than VG10. The Urban knife is legal to carry in public in the UK.

8 - Spyderco Urban Knife Safety Orange Handle - The wharncliffe shape VG10 steel blade provides less of a sharp point and is not ideal for piercing. The straight edge is good for making long cuts in light to medium grade cardboard; a lock knife is better for heavy-duty work. UK legal carry knife.

9 - Spyderco UK Penknife Leaf Blade - The S30V steel blade holds an excellent edge, the flat grind, spear point blade is slightly thicker than the Delica 4 flat grind blade. All round good knife for both piercing and making long cuts with thumb ramp jimping, which aids leverage. Non-locking knife, which is legal to carry in public in UK.

10 - Spyderco UK Penknife Drop Point Blade - The drop point S30V steel blade has a slightly thicker point than the leaf shape blade. A better grip is provided with dual finger choil and thumb ramp jimping. Lightweight, UK legal carry knife with pocket clip. Good for fine to medium grade cardboard choose a locking knife for heavier grade cardboard.


Re-Using Cardboard Packaging - The 10 Best Knives For Cutting Cardboard

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